by Jessica Pawl

The basics: A European road trip for the books

How to rent a car in Geneva

We rented a vehicle from the Hertz location right at the Geneva Airport. There’s a shuttle that takes you to and from the airport to a rental car garage just a short drive away, where you can easily pick up and drop off vehicles.

A few things to keep in mind:

• France or Switzerland: The Geneva Airport is actually located right on the border of France and Switzerland. So, you can access either directly as you depart. In fact, when renting a vehicle, you’ll need to specific which country you’re driving into. So, have that route in mind when booking 😉
• Rental car costs: Most things in Switzerland aren’t cheap, and car rentals are no exceptions. You’ll save loads of money by renting a manual transmission vehicle.
• Car size: The bigger-is-better American mindset doesn’t exactly translate over here. Pack lightly, because most rental vehicles are cars or station wagons, and if you want a truly “full size” SUV, you’re going to shell out quite a bit more for it.

CHAMONIX: A French Alps dream village

Perhaps best known as a winter paradise for skiers, this charming French village loses none of its breathtaking appeal in the summer months. For families with kids (even young kids, like the baby and toddler that we traveled with), there’s no shortage of fun.

We stayed in a sweet chalet near the edge of town. Nothing fancy, but man did it have the most gorgeous views and bright flowers in July. It’s a three-bedroom VRBO that sleeps up to six guests, and is walkable to markets and town, if you don’t mind a bit of a trek. From the backyard, we soaked up the insane mountain vews, dine al fresco for every meal (even breakfast) and on occassion, watched a paraglider land a few meters away.

Here, a few of our favorite Chamonix recommendations:

• Ride the Montenvers Train to Mer de Glace
  All aboard! Take the scenic red train up to the famous Mer de Glace glacier. Kids will love the ride, and once at the top, they can explore the ice cave, learn about glaciers at the Glaciorium, and take in the incredible mountain views. There’s a hotel at the top as well, with a cozy bar and sun terrace if you’re hungry but prefer to avoid the train station cafe.
• Visit Parc de Merlet
  Kids will freak when they spot marmots, deer, ibex, and chamois roaming freely at Parc de Merlet–even perched upon the roofs. This nature park offers easy walking trails and stunning views of Mont Blanc, making it a great option for families. A cafe terrace is available, overlooking the Alps.
• Take a cable car to Aiguille du Midi
  Even if your kids aren’t ready for a serious hike, they can still experience the thrill of high-altitude views by taking the cable car up to Aiguille du Midi. Older kids will be especially excited about the “Step into the Void” glass box experience, but be mindful that for little ones under 24 months, high altitudes are not always recommended. It’s worth a chat with your pediatrician before you make any firm plans.
• Ride the Luge Alpine Coaster
  For a cheery adrenaline rush, head to the Chamonix Luge Alpine Coaster at Parc de Loisirs. This fun, toboggan-style ride twists and turns through the mountain landscape, and kids (and parents) can control their own speed. I had the time of my life riding this with our three year old, and he did too, hopping on with dad immediately after our first run.
• Splash around at the sports center
  If the weather isn’t cooperating, take a break from the mountains and visit the Richard Bozon Sports Center. The indoor swimming pool features a slide, kiddie pool, and plenty of space to splash around.
• Stroll town
  After a busy day of adventure, stop by one of Chamonix’s charming cafés for a well-earned treat. Kids will love the delicious crepes, chocolates, and pastries available throughout the town. There’s also a couple of adorable toy shops; consider yourself warned.

ORTA SAN GIULIO: A charming lakeside retreat

Nestled on the shores of Lake Orta, the charming town of Orta San Giulio is truly a hidden gem for families looking to relax. With its picturesque, pedestrian town, stunning lake (and island!) views, it’s a slice of Italy unlike any I’d experienced before.

We couldn’t have gotten luckier with our vacation rental. If I’m being honest, I chose the Airbnb and that’s what landed us in this town, of which I’d known nothing about beforehand. Renovated with modern touches, it’s a small two-bedroom apartment that overlooks the town’s main square and just beyond it, the Island of Silence. And while cars aren’t allowed in the city, it conveniently offered garage parking a short walk away. And in the most family-friendly perk, the owners also offer a private and grassy lakeside lawn for day rentals along with your stay. We took the pack-and-play, let the baby nap under the shade of a tree, and everyone had the absolute dreamiest, laziest lakeside day.

• Take a taxi boat to Isola San Giulio
  Hop on a taxi boat for a short ride to a small island in the middle of Lake Orta. Kids will love the boat ride, and once there, families can wander along the island’s peaceful (silent) pathways, marvel at the ancient basilica, and enjoy the magical atmosphere which is anchored by a monastery.
• Explore the Sacro Monte di Orta
  A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Sacro Monte di Orta features scenic walking trails and 20 beautifully decorated chapels. The gentle hike up offers breathtaking views of the lake, making it a great outdoor activity for kids to explore nature while learning about history.
• Head to the beach club
  During the summer, Lake Orta’s clear waters are perfect for a refreshing swim. Families can visit the local beaches like Bagnera Beach in Pettenasco or rent paddleboats, canoes, or even kayaks for some fun on the water. We spent an afternoon sipping cocktails, eating ice cream and splashing around at Spiaggia Miami, a beach club a short drive away.
• Ride the Orta Mini Train
  For a fun and easy way to explore the town, hop on the Orta Mini Train, which takes visitors through the charming streets of Orta San Giulio, giving kids an exciting ride while parents enjoy the scenic views. Look for the tiny playground up the hill if you need a bit of open play before the day ends.
• Explore the cobbled streets of the Old Town
  The pedestrian-friendly streets of Orta San Giulio are perfect for wandering with kids. With hidden alleys, small toy shops, and street musicians, there’s always something to discover–and you’re never too far from gelato. (Parents take note, you’ll find several Michelin restaurants here, too!)

LAUTERBRUNNEN: Adventure in the valley

A lush valley surrounded by sky-high mountain peaks, with a darling town and gushing cliffside waterfall. What more could you want? Conveniently located near Interlaken and all that it has to offer, you’ll find comfort, convenience and a million mountains to climb. And thankfully, Lauterbrunnen offers a train station with easy access to all of the connecting points that you most places you’ll want to go, where you may then connect on to cble cars, funiculars or gondolas.

We opted to stay in this two-bedroom VRBO at the edge of town, which sleeps five and has an average rate of less than $300 per night. It offered all the standard amenities, fairly basic European design, and STUNNING valley views. From the back patio, we watched paragliders land, and from every room you could see the falls in their constant motion (lit up at night, too!). From the condo, town is just a 10-15 minute walk, most of it along a gushing glacial river.

• Climb to the Staubbach Falls overlook
  From town, you can climb the mountainside to get a closer look at Staubbach Falls. From that vantage point, along the cliffside, you’ll reap sweeping views of the valley. It’s spectacular, and on a sunny day, downright perfection for photographs. If you’re toting a little one, wear a baby carrier. The terrain is a bit steep, as you’d expect, with stairs near the top that are narrow.
• Head to the viral Flower Park
  Take a train to Murren, then a cable car to Allmendhubel, where you can find a cozy spot at the Panorama Restaurant, with epic views out over the mountains (as well as Flower Park playground views for parents of older kids, who can keep tabs from afar). Reservations can be made in advance. On the sun terrace, enjoy drinks and a charcuterie platter or an order of pasta or chicken nuggets for picky kids. Once you’re done–or before, if your kids are anything like mine–head into the playground itself, which is full of slides, a play cheese shop, and water labyrinth, all with the most gorgeous views of the mountains.
• Tour family-friendly Castle Oberhofen
  From your homebase, it will take just over 30 minutes to get to Castle Oberhofen, a gorgeous castle that’s also ideal for little kids, with its educational components and darling “mouse hunt,”–which my three year old loved! An Oriental smoking room at the top level is as stunning as you might imagine, and the gardens outside are spectacular.
• Walk through St. Beatus Caves
  Also on this side of the lake, you’ll find St. Beatus Caves, a one-kilometer long cave system open to the public–for a fee. Inside, you’ll see rivers, waterfalls and an up-close look at the inside of a mountain. There are nearly 300 steps along the way, so be sure to pack a baby carrier if you’ve got a tiny one!
• See a waterfall inside a mountain
  From the beginning of April to November, you can access these gorgeous mountain-interior Trummelbach Falls, which are unlike anything I’ve ever seen. Children under four aren’t permitted (my husband and I each went individually though; it was worth the solo trip!). You can take an elevator to the top, then wind down the falls, through cave-like interiors to see the gushing water–up to 20,000 liters per second.
• Slide down the iconic cow’s tongue
  With a wooden cow that’s over 8 meters tall with a clever tongue slide, Alpine Herdsman’s Playground mountain top playground truly does stand apart from the rest. Like Allmendhubel, it has a casual restaurant and sun terrace as well, though this one is cafeteria style. The views are STUNNING, with a perfect picture opportunity of a Swiss flag near the cable car arrival. THere are also plenty of trails, including family friendly options like the Lieselotte Trail with cute stops for kids along the way. To get here, you’ll take a train to Wengen from Lauterbrunnen, and then a cable car up to Mannlichen.
• Venture to Grindelwald
  But the further up the mountain you go, the more adventurous activities await. From the First Glider experience, where a group of four (at least 51″ tall) can ride together in a high-speed paraglide-on-a-line type experience that’s nearly as fun to watch from the ground! Or to the Moutain Carts for children taller than 53″, which let them track downhill in a cross between a go-cart and sled. At the top of the mountain, however, you’ll find the First Cliff Walk, where folks not so scared of heights can venture out beyond the safety of the grassy grounds.