A French Alps Family Trip in Charming Chamonix

by Jessica Pawl

Getting to Chamonix

When I thought of France, it used to be Paris and the Eiffel Tower that sprung to mind. But these days, it’s the storybook city of Chamonix, tucked in the French Alps and with a gorgeous glacial river running through it, that I think of first.

We spent two weeks in this charming valley village with a baby and a toddler and I’m here to report that it was every bit as lovely as you’d expect. A perfectly scenic town to stroll, an amusement park, wildlife, hikes of all kinds, and a variety of amazing day trips from a cozy homebase.

FLY: Geneva, Switzerland Airport
DRIVE: Rent a car and explore…
Chamonix, France (1 hr)

Where to stay

For us, vacation rentals are always the best option. Full kitchens, separate bedrooms, easy parking and most important of all: amazing views that us adults could soak in over a glass of wine during naptime or when the kids went to sleep.

Our chalet vacation rental wasn’t anything fancy, but man did it have the most gorgeous views and bright flowers in July. It’s a three-bedroom VRBO that sleeps up to six guests, and is walkable to markets and town, if you don’t mind a bit of a trek. From the backyard, the entire family enjoyed the insane mountain views, dined al fresco for every meal (even breakfast) and on occasion, watched a paraglider land a few meters away.

What to do in Chamonix

Perhaps best known as a winter paradise for skiers, this charming French village loses none of its breathtaking appeal in the summer months. For families with kids (even young kids, like the baby and toddler that we traveled with), there’s no shortage of fun.

Here, a few of our favorite Chamonix recommendations:

Ride the Montenvers Train to Mer de Glace
All aboard! Take the scenic red train up to the famous Mer de Glace glacier. Kids will love the ride, and once at the top, they can explore the ice cave, learn about glaciers at the Glaciorium, and take in the incredible mountain views. There’s a hotel at the top as well, with a cozy bar and sun terrace if you’re hungry but prefer to avoid the train station cafe.
Visit Parc de Merlet
Kids will freak when they spot marmots, deer, ibex, and chamois roaming freely at Parc de Merlet–even perched upon the roofs. This nature park offers easy walking trails and stunning views of Mont Blanc, making it a great option for families. A cafe terrace is available, overlooking the Alps.
Take a cable car to Aiguille du Midi
Even if your kids aren’t ready for a serious hike, they can still experience the thrill of high-altitude views by taking the cable car up to Aiguille du Midi. Older kids will be especially excited about the “Step into the Void” glass box experience, but be mindful that for little ones under 24 months, high altitudes are not always recommended. It’s worth a chat with your pediatrician before you make any firm plans.
Ride the Luge Alpine Coaster
For a cheery adrenaline rush, head to the Chamonix Luge Alpine Coaster at Parc de Loisirs. This fun, toboggan-style ride twists and turns through the mountain landscape, and kids (and parents) can control their own speed. I had the time of my life riding this with our three year old, and he did too, hopping on with dad immediately after our first run.
Splash around at the sports center
If the weather isn’t cooperating, take a break from the mountains and visit the Richard Bozon Sports Center. The indoor swimming pool features a slide, kiddie pool, and plenty of space to splash around.
Stroll town
After a busy day of adventure, stop by one of Chamonix’s charming cafés for a well-earned treat. Kids will love the delicious crepes, chocolates, and pastries available throughout the town. There’s also a couple of adorable toy shops; consider yourself warned.

Day Trips:

Annecy, France (1:15 min drive)
I was surprised by how large the city of Annecy is, with its picture-perfect canals and colorful shops and cafes lining it. Give yourself a full afternoon to meander, strolling past the bright rowboats, visiting the playground, Albigny Beach on the lake, getting ice cream, and enjoying the Instagrammable moments of this southeastern French town.
Aosta, Italy (1 hour drive)
Want to squeeze in a trip to Italy during your visit to France? It’s quite easy, actually, as you only need to drive the seven-mile Mont Blanc Tunnel to arrive on the other side of the mountain and find yourself in Italy. Here, you’ll find ancient ruins, museums and attractions, cafes and another lovely European town to stroll.
Chillon Castle (1:15 min drive)
This Medieval castle on Lake Geneva is a particularly stunning one to visit, with loads of novel nooks and crannies. Kids will enjoy walking the wooden pathways through the courtyard, walking the bridge above the moat, and peering into bench holes that were toilets once upon a time.
Yvoire (1:5 min drive)
Another Lake Geneva gem, this French town feels particularly fairytale-ish. We spent an afternoon here, enjoying lunch overlooking the water, buying treats at the chocolate shop, searching for the perfect handmade birthday dress for our soon-to-be one year old, and then dipping into the cool lake waters at the nearby park.

Make it a European road trip:

Chamonix was just our first stop on a road trip that took us in a large loop, moving onto a stunning Northern Italy lake, then finishing in Switzerland’s stunning Lauterbrunnen valley.

If you’d like full details on our entire trip, which we stretched out over five weeks but could be done in 10 days to two weeks, you can read all about it here: The Most Epic European Road Trip Itinerary.