Italy with kids. The very phrase honestly made me hesitate. Late dinners, ancient ruins, cobblestone streets with a stroller — it all sounded beautiful in theory and exhausting in practice.
I’m going to skip to the important part here: I was wrong.
We’ve visited Italy across several trips now — Rome for a marathon that my husband ran, Tuscany and Florence for the wine country and culture fix afterward, Venice for the magic, and a little lakeside town called Orta San Giulio that I stumbled upon purely because of an Airbnb listing. Each trip handed us something different, and together they’ve shaped a set of honest, firsthand tips for traveling Italy with young children. A baby in a pack-and-play. A stroller-resisting toddler. Kids that lose their minds when they walk past a gelato shop.
This is that guide.
Before You Go: How to Prepare Little Ones for Italy
One of the best things we did before heading to Rome was prep our four-year-old for what he was about to experience. We watched kid-focused educational videos, read picture books about Italy and Rome, talked about gladiators and gelato in equal measure, and had family dinners where we sampled Italian foods ahead of time. The hype was real, and it paid off — he was genuinely excited and curious once we arrived.
For my own sanity, I also dove deep into the Facebook group “Italy with Kids – Travel Ideas and Advice.” It’s a goldmine of practical, parent-to-parent recommendations that no travel article can fully replicate. (Highly recommend joining it if you’re planning a trip!)
Pack smart. A single durable stroller or a good carrier (or both) will carry you far — literally. Sunscreen is a must no matter the season given all the walking around you’ll be doing. Light layers, comfortable walking shoes, and that one beloved snack from home that buys you twenty minutes of peace.
Side note: See my recommendations for our very favorite, tried-and-tested toddler travel gear!
Where to Stay: Airbnb Over Hotels in Italy
Across every Italian destination, we kept coming back to Airbnb as our go-to. Hotels in Italy can be surprisingly strict about room occupancy — meaning a family of four doesn’t always fit neatly into their offerings. Vacation rentals gave us full kitchens for easy meals and snacks, more square footage for restless little bodies, and the kind of local-neighborhood feeling that made us feel less like tourists and more like temporary residents.
That neighborhood feeling matters. Especially in Rome, we loved staying in Trastevere, which had a lively, lived-in energy and put us within walking distance of nearly everything we wanted to see.
Rome With Kids: Approach It Like You Live There
Not gonna lie — the Eternal City with a one- and four-year-old felt daunting on paper. But we had so much fun.
The key to our success was approaching Rome like we weren’t tourists. That mindset shift — slowing down, wandering, eating when hungry rather than when scheduled — made everything easier.
What to See
The big sites are big for a reason. We visited the Pantheon, St. Peter’s Basilica, the Colosseum, and the Trevi Fountain — and while our experience was far from a guided tour, we enjoyed all of them with kids in tow. A few things to know:
- Buy tickets well in advance. Lines are long and the heat is real in the summer months. We heard great things about Liv Tours and Maria Claudia Tours for family-focused guided experiences. Alternatively, many sites can simply be walked independently when possible.
- Strolling the river at sunset. Some of my favorite memories in Rome! The sunsets are beautiful along the riverside and the walk across the pedestrian bridges at the thousand-year-old Basilica di San Bartolomeo all’Isola are so charming.
- Campo di Fiori’s daily piazza market (Mondays through Saturdays) from 7 a.m. – 2 p.m. are overflowing with flowers, produce, juices and snacks. It’s such a fun way to casually explore like a local, grab a snack, and soak up the atmosphere.
- Piazza Navona was one of my favorite daytime stops, where we all grabbed a bench (mom and dad grabbed a drink, too) and simply enjoyed the bustle of the city and the music of a nearby pianist. Similarly charming was eating pizza out of the box before getting scoops of gelato while sitting on the monument steps in Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, near our Airbnb.
- Villa Borghese Park is an excellent half-day option — it has sprawling green space, playgrounds, a zoo, and rentable family e-bikes. A welcome exhale from the cobblestone-and-crowds pace of the rest of the city.
- Gelato stops are not optional. Build them into the itinerary. Your children will thank you, and honestly, so will you.
A Moment of Grace We Didn’t Expect
We’d squeezed into a crowded restaurant one evening — too late, after a long day, with a one- and four-year-old. Classic misstep. My mom nerves were frazzled; I felt every side glance as we handed over our phones when the kids got antsy.
Then, as we paid the bill, a man walked over, crouched down to my son’s level, and said: “What a good boy you were at dinner. I know it isn’t easy.” He handed him five euros for ice cream. Then another five euros for his sister.
I nearly cried. The warmth of that stranger — and the graciousness we encountered toward our children throughout Italy — surprised and delighted us at every turn. Italians, as it turns out, genuinely love kids.
But my takeaway? My favorite dinner was takeout pasta, eaten underneath the Pantheon one evening, when the kids were up far too late, running like hooligans around the piazza. Rome is indeed fancy, but the magic of the city need not be.
Tuscany With Kids: You’ll Be Proven Wonderfully Wrong
I wasn’t sold on Tuscany with toddlers. And then I was proven completely, joyfully wrong.
So much space for running wild. Pedestrian-only Old Towns filled with cafés, piazzas, and pizza. Cathedral ceilings that made my four-year-old go genuinely silent in awe. The loveliest people who welcomed us at every turn.
We based ourselves in an Airbnb outside Pienza — close enough to walk a wooded trail right into town — and day-tripped to Siena and Montepulciano, both of which were absolutely beautiful. The goal at every turn in Tuscany was to choose whichever direction felt right. There was no agenda here, just leisurely wandering, and that may play a big role in why I loved this leg of our trip as much as I did.
Our Airbnb was a delightful blend of history and traditional Italian coziness with modern additions. In its lifetime, it’s served as a watchtower and farmhouse, and today it delivers the most inspiring Tuscan countryside views from its perch over the olive grove. It also came with three resident cats who greeted us at the door each morning, curled up in the sun.
Our Only Planned Event – A Splurge For Mom and Dad
One of the most memorable parts of our Tuscany visit (and a splurge for us parents) was hiring a private chef. He arrived around 4 or 5 p.m. to begin fixing a meal that he’d start serving at 7 p.m., just as the kids were heading to bed. But before he did so, he whipped up the creamiest parmesan pasta that the little ones inhaled while watching his every move as he prepped the food in the teeny historic kitchen. And then, once the kids were asleep, we were treated to the loveliest multi-course meal that ended with a plate of lemon cookies and dessert wine in front of a roaring fire. It was a dream!
If Italy has been on your list, Tuscany with kids is your sign to stop waiting.
Florence With Kids: Make It Hands-On
Florence is a feast for the senses, and the best way to experience it with young children is to do things, not just see them.
Just a short walk from the children’s carousel, our Airbnb offered the most picturesque views of the Duomo on its private terrace. Two spacious bedrooms made spreading out easy, though the expansive patio is the most usable non-bedroom living space, take note. A small but efficient kitchen worked perfectly for us.
Gelato-Making Class
One of the highlights of our Florence trip was a private gelato-making class with Tulio Bondi, a gelato expert and shop owner (book or inquire via his Instagram account). I wasn’t sure how our four-year-old would handle two full hours — but his enthusiasm was completely off the charts. Our instructor walked us through the history of gelato, its ingredients, and then guided us as we made two batches ourselves: a strawberry gelato and a rich stracciatella.
Was it snug with four of us squeezed into the space? Sure, but it actually just made it feel more cozy.
The Case for One Private Experience
When traveling with kids, we’ve consistently found that investing in one special private class or tour beats two or three group activities every time. With a private experience, there’s zero anxiety about your kids being kids — no worry about slowing down a group or disrupting other travelers. It also naturally forces you to slow down the “go-go-go” mentality that can overtake big-ticket trips. Win-win.
Venice With Kids: Get Beautifully Lost
Do you really need to do anything more in Venice than get lost in its tiny streets? We think not.
But in case you do, here’s what we’d suggest:
Where to Stay
We stayed in a two-bedroom apartment called Corte Rubbi 5514 — tucked down a narrow alley, behind a church, within a small residential courtyard. It required a minute to find, but once inside, we had canal views from the bedroom windows, a full kitchen, air conditioning (rare in Venice!), and blissful quiet despite being minutes from St. Mark’s Square and the Grand Canal.
For families, the air conditioning alone is worth factoring into your Venice accommodation search — most places don’t have it.
What to Do
Cruise the canals. Whether by water taxi or vaporetto ferry, getting on the water makes travel through the city both practical and magical. Along our routes, we spotted police patrol boats, garbage barges, and ambulance boats — all moving through the city like a floating version of rush hour. Kids are absolutely delighted.
The gondola. We nearly skipped it at 100 euros for thirty minutes. We’re so glad we didn’t. With a baby at home with Dad, it became a special one-on-one experience between me and our three-year-old. We requested the gondolier focus on the narrow residential canals rather than the Grand Canal — quieter, more intimate, and genuinely beautiful.
Eat cicchetti. Swing into a bacaro for the local tradition of cicchetti (pronounced chi-KET-tee) — small open-faced sandwiches served in traditional Venetian cafés. Piled high with diced tomatoes, parmesan, shaved deli meats, and balsamic. Kids are usually happy; adults are definitely happy.
Private chef dinner via TakeaChef. With an infant and a toddler, we skipped the cooking class scene and found something better: a private chef, booked through TakeaChef.com, who arrived right around the kids’ bedtime and prepared a five-course meal and low-key cooking lesson in our rental. More expensive than a restaurant dinner, but completely worth it as a travel indulgence.
Mask painting. Many Venetian mask shops offer children’s painting sessions — both by appointment and casual drop-in. Kids learn a bit of the history behind this medieval tradition while creating something to bring home.
Day trip to Burano. A 45-minute water bus from Venice, Burano is a small island of candy-colored houses lining blue-green canals. It’s the perfect setting for a leisurely afternoon, with lunch spots, shops, and paddleboards to rent for older kids. The photo opportunities alone make the trip worthwhile.
A sweet find for little ones: We picked up a coloring book called Leo and Venezia by a local artisan — there’s also a companion picture book, sticker book, and stuffed animal, all available online. A lovely gift to get children dreaming about Venice ahead of a trip.
Orta San Giulio: The Hidden Gem You Haven’t Heard Of Yet
Less than two hours from Lake Como, but a world away.
Nestled on the shores of Lake Orta in northern Italy, Orta San Giulio is one of those places that sneaks up on you. I found it entirely by accident — I chose the Airbnb, and the Airbnb happened to be in this town. I’d known nothing about it beforehand, and my goodness, it was the BEST surprise.
It’s a pedestrian-only town with a picturesque main square, stunning lake views, and at its center, a small island with an almost mythological story attached to it.
The Island of Silence (and Its Dragon)
In 390 AD, Isola San Giulio was said to be inhabited by dragons and monsters — so feared that no boatman would cross the water to reach it. When Saint Julius arrived, determined to build a church, he laid his cloak on the water and rowed himself across on his own. He drove out every creature on the island — except one dragon, which escaped to a cave on shore. A bone found there still hangs in the basilica today.
Now, the island is known as the Island of Silence. A single cobblestone path loops the entire perimeter, past medieval villas, ancient chapels, and quiet corners with placards along the way inviting you — gently reminding you — to slow down.
Your five-year-old is not going to stop talking about it.
Where We Stayed
Our vacation rental was a small two-bedroom apartment renovated with modern touches, overlooking the main square and just beyond it, the island. Cars aren’t allowed in town, but the rental offered garage parking a short walk away. And in the most family-friendly perk we’ve ever encountered: the owners also offer a private, grassy lakeside lawn for day rentals alongside your stay. We took the pack-and-play, let the baby nap under the shade of a tree, and spent the laziest, dreamiest afternoon by the water. (I’m still thinking about it.)
I’ve also rounded up several other vacation rental options that I think would work fabulously for families in this area.
What to Do in Orta San Giulio
Taxi boat to Isola San Giulio. A short ride across the lake delivers you to the island. Kids love the boat; once there, families can wander the peaceful pathways, marvel at the ancient basilica, and soak in the magical atmosphere.
Sacro Monte di Orta. A UNESCO World Heritage site featuring scenic walking trails and 20 beautifully decorated chapels. The gentle hike up offers sweeping lake views — a great outdoor activity that layers nature with history.
Beach club afternoon. During summer, Lake Orta’s clear waters are perfect for a swim. We spent an afternoon at Spiaggia Miami, a beach club a short drive away, sipping cocktails, eating ice cream, and splashing around. It was peak family travel bliss.
The Orta Mini Train. A fun, easy way to explore the town with younger kids — it winds through the charming streets while parents enjoy the scenery. Keep an eye out for a small playground up the hill if you need some open-play time before the day ends.
Wander the Old Town. The pedestrian-friendly cobbled streets are made for wandering. Hidden alleys, small toy shops, street musicians, gelato around every corner. Parents, note: there are also several Michelin-starred restaurants here!
Final Thoughts: Just Go
Italy has a reputation for being a grown-up destination. And yes, it has ancient ruins that demand a little reverence and restaurants that stay open until midnight and menus that don’t always include chicken nuggets.
But it also has warm, generous people who love children. Endless piazzas where toddlers can run. Gelato at every turn. Islands with dragon legends. And that ineffable Italian quality of slowing down and being present that, when you’re traveling with kids, is exactly the pace you need.
Go. You’ll be wonderfully, deliciously proven wrong about all of it.
